This little report from our first extraction day is mostly meant for myself to remember the process and for all new beekeepers who have not tried to extract yet. What I miss in my beekeeping training is how to perform the actual extraction process. We had heard about it, but never seen it (other than the visit I had to a large extraction factory in Australia in the winter).
Lots of golden honey emerging. I decided to put the knife away and only use the uncapping forkFirst challenge was: Where can I find an extractor, as I can't spend so much money on one since we are only going to keep bees in England this year (we will be moving to Norway in 2011 (fingers crossed). The Swindon Beekeeping club has a club extractor they lend out to its members, and that is really of good help. Nigel went out for a drink on Thursday evening and met one of his colleagues, Dave, and they started talking about bees (as you do when you're out drinking) and as if magic happened; Dave had the club extractor at his house and he had planned to extract his honey on the coming Sunday! What a coincidence.
The 4 frames club extractorNext challenge: Which other equipment do we need? This is the list I came up with (which is detailed, but is an absolute need as you are far too sticky to start looking in cupboards and draws for equipment in the middle of the process)
1. Sharp knife (which I did not use at the end)
2. Uncapping fork
3. Bucket for cappings (and one extra just in case)
4. Settling tank
5. Something to filter the honey through (I ended up with a metal strainer with a muslin bag tied underneath it for double filtering)
6. Extra muslin for the capping bucket (fixed with a large elastic band around the bucket)
7. Oven roasting pan (to hold the frames over when uncapping - advice from my bee friend Bridget)
8. Spatula
9. Cloth (to wipe up the honey with every time you spill a little)
10. Plastic bags (to put all sticky stuff in when you don't need it any longer)
11. Rubber bands
12. Pegs (to fix the muslin bag to the strainer)
13. A couple of spoons (to place through the hole and handle of the strainer to keep it in place over the settling tank)
14. A smaller bowl (just to be used for smaller amounts of honey you need to place somewhere after something did not go to plan)
15. Long empty work space (to make a production line)
16. Chair (to place the settling tank onto under the extractor, which at this stage has been lifted onto the kitchen worktop to get high enough to get the honey running out to the settling tank)
We turned up to David's place on Sunday morning after we had harvested 12 frames to be extracted. It was very exciting and we were lucky, as Dave had already spun his honey in the morning and had gone through the experience once already when we started our process.
We made a nice production line starting with the super with the frames at one end, thereafter the capping space with the last piece of equipment, the capping bucket with the muslin fixed with a large rubber band to keep it in place.
The process works well if you make a good production line and have all at hand before you startIt is worth knowing that you will need someone to assist you when doing the capping job; handing over the frames and holding onto the capping bucket when you scrape off the cappings into the muslin. Leave the cappings in the muslin as it will take a long time for the honey to drip off.
Uncapping tray wiht the bucket for the capping to the right
We uncapped the first 4 frames (don't forget to uncap both sides) and the spinning could begin. Spin first at low speed both sides of the frames and thereafter you can use a little more speed to spin all the honey out of the comb. This was the first exciting experience - seeing the honey slung out of the comb and onto the walls of the extractor.
SpinningWe carried on with the extraction until we had finished all 12 frames (just make sure there is enough space under the frames for the honey. If the extractor becomes too full; a) You will not be able to spin as the frames will be stuck in honey, and b) the extractor will be very heavy to lift up to a higher surface to get the honey out of it.
Nigel and Dave turning the frames in the extractor around
When the spinning had finished, then we lifted the extractor the worktop and placed the settling tank underneath. You can use a purpose built double strainer, but we used a metal kitchen strainer with a muslin bag underneath to achieve double straining of the honey. The honey should be clear in the settling tank, to be ready for bottling after it has settled.
Fixing the muslin bag to the strainer with pegsWe got 25 lbs (around 11 kg) of honey from 12 frames (minus the 3 where the honey had crystallised). We are very happy with our first extraction and look forward to the next at the end of August.We now will leave the honey in the settling tank for at least 24 hours to allow all air bubbles to get to the surface and then we wilol be ready to bottle our first jar of honey.
Having said all this, we also had around 3 frames where the honey had crystallised and could not be slung out. We tried to warm up one of the frames, but the wax melted into the roasting pan too. I put the honey and the half melted wax into muslin and strained it manually by squeezing out the liquid honey. It made a lovely jar of very unclear honey for our own consumption, containing some melted wax and pollen. This is possibly the tastiest honey we extracted - it was lovely on a slice warm fresh bread.